"Brickman" (legomaniacman)
03/20/2016 at 18:11 • Filed to: None
0
7|
"Brickman" (legomaniacman)
03/20/2016 at 18:11 • Filed to: None | 0
| 7 |
Still working on getting my 96 caravan running since it died for some reason a week or so ago.
I only have a basic OBDII scanner, but I have no codes, sensors work (cant test crank or cam sensors with basic stuff (just has to be the ones I really need to test)).
Engine spins over, have compression, injectors fire as they should , but I have no spark. I get 12v to the ignition coil, but the PCM needs a signal from the crank sensor in order to send a pulse signal to the coil.
What I’ve tested so far.
Checked all fuses and relays (all in spec)
Battery is fine (had to recharge it do to trying to restart engine, checking spark etc)
Found wiring bundle rubbing on top of drive shaft and tape and ribbed hoses crumbled to nothing. Wiring goes to the oil pressure, speed, and crank sensor. Will have to buy some ribbed wiring thingys.
Removed PCM to check continuity from sensors to PCM plug. All wires are fine. (hope of having just a bad wire was quickly diminished)
no corroded or loose grounds.
Bought new ignition coil, spark plugs and wires, and cam & crank sensor. (still no spark) Needed new plugs anyway.
New Cam and Crank sensor uses a newer style connector than the 96. So I have to order new connectors. Cant tell if that’s whats wrong with the van until I can get the new connectors on there.
AHHHHH!
I could easily let the van go to pasture or sell it for parts, but it only has 68k miles, not one ounce of rust, everything except the ignition system works, and it’s the first time it broke down in my familys 20 years of owning it. Definitely worth fixing.
I looked at some forums of dodge caravan owners having crank sensor problems with their van, some PCM, but I would suspect that other components would not work and the van would act like its possessed?
Or I could do a LS Swap :P
Under_Score
> Brickman
03/20/2016 at 19:10 |
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Wow, that’s a while. My parents had a Grand Caravan of that generation when I was born, which they purchased used (a year old with 28, 29,000 miles). It had a lot of problems; they quickly sold it for a new RAV4, still driven today by my grandfather. That van, along with my Ranger, are why my parents never want to buy used again.
DoYouEvenShift
> Brickman
03/20/2016 at 19:31 |
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Cam and crank sensors are very common on Chryslers. What motor? With your scanner, can you view live datastream? If so, is there any rpm reading while cranking? Can you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the key?
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Brickman
> DoYouEvenShift
03/20/2016 at 19:39 |
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2.4L. I use TorquePro and OBD Car Doctor to make sure I get consistant readings. I get RPMs when the cranking the engine. About 170 RPM if I remember. I hear the fuel pump run when i put the key on. and I got fuel pressure in the rail.
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DoYouEvenShift
> Brickman
03/20/2016 at 20:21 |
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Ok so you got crank signal and fuel pressure, injectors are pulsing, but no spark. Can you test to see of the coil is getting power to it?
Danger
> Brickman
03/20/2016 at 21:24 |
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Dang. Used to have the same vehicle with a similar issue. If I remember, a bit fuzzy, but mine was caused by a loose or pinched or damaged wire sending 12v or a signal somewhere important. Wish I could be more helpful. But you seem like you’re being methodical, so you’ll track it down.
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Brickman
> DoYouEvenShift
03/20/2016 at 23:06 |
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I did, I get 12 volts by the green/orange wire and there are two other wires that the PCM sends a signal for the coils to fire. I need a 12v test light. I plan on getting one. Signals are too fast for the voltmeter to read. I did trace out the wires and ohm’d them out and they are good.
AMGtech - now with more recalls!
> Brickman
03/21/2016 at 02:13 |
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Sorry to say it but it sounds like a PCM to me, coil driver probably. Modules typically only do wonky things if a logic circuit has failed, which doesn’t appear to be the case here. If it were the crank sensor you wouldn’t have injector pulse or spark. If it were the cam sensor it would probably still start. Looks like you’re on a good path, but a test light may not get you very far either. What you really need is an oscilloscope. But I suggest checking the wires again, for opens and shorts. Good luck!